My Go-To Brands, Part 1: Gin & Vodka

Because drinking is part of my job, when I drink it’s usually for work. Whether I’m tasting something for review purposes, doing a one-on-one with a distiller, going to a brand-sponsored event, or sampling the wares at big shindigs like Bar Convent Brooklyn or WhiskyFest, I’m usually too busy to drink for pleasure — and on my rare nights off, I generally try to give my liver a rest and not drink anything harder than sparkling water.

But that doesn’t mean I never get to drink off the clock. And when I do, I have certain brands I gravitate to, whether I’m mixing at home or out for dinner with the wife. They’re not the only brands I drink voluntarily, and they’re certainly not the only brands I love. But they’re the ones I generally go to before all others, and it’s time to give them some overdue love. So let’s get this ball rolling with my clear spirits of choice.

I’m not a big vodka drinker. Once or twice a year I’ll crave a vodka martini, and on the rare occasions I eat Russian food, an icy-cold shot straight from the freezer is heavenly. But apart from that… I call it the bottled water of spirits. Some brands taste better than others, and you can definitely tell the difference between brands. But I often question whether it’s worth the effort it takes to figure it out. That said, when I do go for vodka, I almost always go for Ao, from Japan. Most vodkas are distilled from wheat, which imparts a soft, buttery mouthfeel (think Ketel One), rye, which adds a bit of sharpness and spice (Belvedere), or the slightly sweet starchiness of potato (Chopin). Ao, on the other hand, is distilled from rice, and you can really taste it — it’s a little reminiscent of a sake, with a sweet, round, nutty flavor that, in my opinion, knocks the socks off just about every other vodka. It can be a little hard to find in the States, in which case your next best bet is Suntory Haku. It’s also distilled from rice, and like Ao, it’s made by Suntory, so for all I know it’s the same liquid in a different bottle. But whether or not my mind is playing tricks on me, I prefer Ao — to my palate it’s just a little bit fuller, a little bit more refined.

As for “classic” grain-based vodkas, Stoli Elit, Absolut Elyx, and Beluga will all take care of your vodka needs quite nicely. And if you’re into flavored vodkas, you’re on your own. I don’t drink ‘em. Not out of principle or anything, I just don’t like them.

When it comes to gin, I prefer a gin that tastes like gin. That is to say, a traditional gin rather than a gin that tastes like oranges or rose hips or chamomile or anything else that isn’t juniper. Yes, you should absolutely taste the full scope of the botanical melange that makes up a great gin, but in my opinion (and by legal definition), juniper should be Gladys Knight and the other botanicals should be the Pips.

My gin of choice when I’m out drinking (and if I’m drinking gin, it’s usually a martini, though the divier the bar the more likely I’ll opt for a gin & tonic) is Beefeater. Every bar carries it, from the fanciest mixological mecca to the sleaziest dive. It’s not too pricey. It makes a great martini, G & T, Aviation, Collins… you name it. In my opinion it’s the standard by which London Drys should be judged, a perfect balance of flavors with juniper up front but not hogging the spotlight. It’s a crisp, clean, a little citrusy, a little spicy… there are more expensive gins out there, and there are plenty of other great ones, but I don’t think there’s a better gin to be found.

My other go-to, whether I’m out or at home, is Plymouth. At one point, it wasn’t only a brand, but a category — although all that was required of a Plymouth gin was that it be made in Plymouth, England. But the signature characteristic of Plymouth (the brand) is its softness compared to London Drys, with the juniper dialed down somewhat and coriander and cardamom playing stronger supporting roles. It’s also lower proof than Beefeater (41.2% to 47%). Because it’s rather gentle compared to a standard London dry, I wouldn’t put it in every gin cocktail, but in a martini it’s hard to beat.

Another favorite and my current go-to is Hardshore, from Maine. I wrote about it here if you want to learn a little more about it. I discovered it when my wife and I visited Portland a couple of summers ago. We stumbled on the distillery while strolling around and stopped in for a taste and a cocktail, and we were suitably blown away to take a bottle home with us. It’s been getting a lot of play around our place lately; if you’re a gin lover, it’s well worth checking out (go here to find out availability).