Angel's Envy Celebrates Its First Decade With A Rare Mizunara Oak-Finished Bourbon

It’s hard to believe that a mere decade ago, Angel’s Envy didn’t yet exist. In fact it was ten years ago this week, on August 19, 2010, that the late Lincoln Henderson, a well-known veteran distiller coming out of retirement, along with his son, Wes, first filled ex-port barrels with the bourbon that would become Angel’s Envy. Since then it’s become a staple of liquor store shelves, backbars and home bars nationwide. It’s stirred up a bit of controversy — should a cask-finished bourbon even be considered a bourbon proper? — but the naysayers have largely been drowned out by the sound of bourbon drinkers going “Mmmmm.”  And their rum cask-finished rye, which debuted a year or two later, is even better, at least to my taste buds.

Angel’s Envy has done a couple of limited edition cask-finished releases in recent years. Last year, I visited the distillery with a bunch of other journalists, and we were taken on a tour by co-founder Wes Henderson. When he was asked if they had any other limited editions in the works, he said, “We do, but I can’t tell you what it is.” Only thing was, he was standing in front of a barrel that was labeled “Tawny” when he said it. And that’s how we found out — a few months ahead of schedule — about Angel’s Envy Bourbon finished in tawny port barrels, which came out in limited quantities last January.

I also remember Kyle Henderson, Wes’ son and current production manager, talking about something big in the works, but I think he was a little more circumspect about it. Regardless, the time has come to celebrate the tenth “Founder’s Day,” as August 19th is known within the brand, and the cat is out of the bag. It’s a pretty impressive cat, too — a blend of four-year-old and nine-year-old bourbons finished in Japanese Mizunara oak casks for an additional two years.  Mizunara oak isn’t meant for making into barrels. First off, a cask-worthy tree needs to be about 200 years old, which limits the pool pretty severely. Even when suitably aged trees are found, they don’t grow straight, which makes the process pretty difficult. Mizunara is also quite porous, which makes it more prone to leaks. As a result, there aren’t many Mizunara casks around, and the lion’s share of those that are made go to Japanese whisky distilleries. Angel’s Envy managed to score a mere five of them, and it took five years from coming up with the concept to the barrels’ arrival in Kentucky. But it’s not just the rarity that makes Mizunara-aged whiskies such pricey collectibles. It also happens to make incredibly distinctive and delicious whisky.

The first release in their Founder’s Collection (intended to be an ongoing series of limited edition whiskeys), Angel’s Envy Kentucky Straight Bourbon Finished In Mizunara Oak Casks (yes, that’s the full name) (48.9% ABV; $350) is available in a super-duper limited edition of 1,400 bottles. Members of the brand’s 500 Main club (you can sign up here) get first crack at it, while “civilians” get to buy whatever’s left at the distillery and select Kentucky retailers starting September 1.

Is it worth bribing your Kentucky friends or hopping in the car or braving a pandemic-era flight to Louisville to snag a bottle?  It’s obviously not your standard Angel’s Envy, missing as it is the port influence. But it’s also not like your typical bourbon, which is aged entirely in good ol’ quercus alba, aka American oak. While you get the same oaky spice, the Mizunara is lighter, lacking the black pepper vibe of most aged bourbons. It’s like a dessert in a glass, full of vanilla, apple, cinnamon and cereal notes, but with enough tingle on the tongue to remind you that this is a decidedly adult beverage.  

I’ve got to say I’m loving this bourbon, and if it was available in unlimited quantities at a more modest price, it’d definitely be one of the more frequently poured bottles on the shelf. For obvious reasons, though, that’s not going to happen. If you manage to score a bottle, treasure it and savor it — but by all means, drink it. It may be an instant collector’s item, but it’s too good to let sit on the shelf.